One-Third of Oregon’s Coast Warned to Stay Off Beaches as 26 Foot Waves Hit

Meteorologists are warning Oregon beachgoers that a high surf advisory is in place for more than a third of the state’s beaches.
A large swell occurring in the Pacific Ocean has caused large, breaking waves of between 23 and 26 feet, that could create “hazardous conditions along and within the surf zone,” according to the National Weather Service (NWS).
NWS meteorologist Mike Petrucelli told Newsweek that the waves are larger than typical wave height, and that people should be aware of their surroundings. The advisory was issued by the Medford office and will remain in effect until early Friday morning.
The advisory is in place for south central Oregon coast, including for Coos, Curry and Douglas counties. An NWS map shows the advisory stretching roughly 130 miles from south of Brookings to north of Reedsport, more than a third of the state’s 362-mile coastline.
“Large breaking waves could inundate beaches and low lying shorelines,” the advisory said. “Beach erosion is possible, and exposed infrastructure may be damaged.”
“Stay away from the surf zone and off of jetties,” the advisory added. “Area beaches may become hazardous due to dangerous surf conditions.”
Petrucelli said that the waves occur when wind generates a swell out at sea.
“So you have a strong storm over the Pacific, and it generates a wind wave, and eventually over time, that wave gets further away from the storm and becomes what we call a swell,” he said.
Upon approaching the beach, large waves can run up on the beach much higher than expected. High surf advisories are more frequent in the winter time, when waves typically run higher, Petrucelli said.
“If you’re at the beach, you want to be aware of your surroundings,” he said. “Every wave is not going to cause the water to run up, but sometimes you can have that occurring.”
Random large waves can catch people off guard, he warned. Waves can also carry driftwood, logs or other debris, which also can be dangerous.
A hazardous seas warning also is also place for Oregon coastline waters, with the advisory stating that, “strong winds and very steep, hazardous seas could capsize or damage vessels.”
It added: “Low visibility conditions are possible. Bar crossing could also become dangerous,” the warning said. “Mariners should consider altering plans to avoid strong winds and very steep seas. Remain in port, seek safe harbor, alter course, and/or secure the vessel for severe conditions.”
Aside from coastal hazards, other parts of Oregon are under a winter storm warning and winter weather advisory as a series of storm-embedded systems move across the Pacific Northwest, threatening up to 3 feet of snow in the higher-elevation Cascades.
Some meteorologists urged people to keep a winter emergency driving kit easily accessible in their car, with items like a flashlight, batteries, blankets, a shovel, water, non-perishable food items and tire chains.